Making Minky Easy – My Best Binding Method

Binding!  That final stage you just want to finish, NOW!  This is, by far, my most requested technique.  It makes binding minky easy, fast and beautiful.

1.  Cut binding yardage 2″ wide.  Do not cut minky on the bias!  It is stretchy enough.

2. Prep your sewing machine.  Use a 90/14 Stretch needle.  I prefer my single-hole 1/4″ foot and a magnetic seam guide to keep the fabric in line.

Foot and Guide

3. Next, make a finishing fold  Starting on the back of the quilt in the middle of a long side, fold the beginning of the strip down at a 45 degree angle.

Fold Close-up

4.  Using a 1/2″ seam allowance, stitch along the edge till about 2″ from the corner.

1st Corner

5. Measure 1/2″ from the end and draw a line.

1st corner mark

6. Turn the quilt and stitch right off the edge at a 45 degree angle.

45 Degree Cornor

If you did it right, it will look like this.

45 Degree Sew Off

7. Fold the binding strip up along the 45 degree line you just stitched.

Corner Fold

8. Fold the binding strip down aligning it in three places, along the left side, the top fold and the edge of the quilt that you are going to quilt next.  It should look like this.

Folded Corner Binding

9. Measure 1″ from the corner and draw a mark.

2nd Corner Mark

10. Start stitching on the mark you just made and sew all the way to the next corner.  Repeat the same precess for each of remaining corners.

Stitching after Turn

11. Stitch your way around to the finishing fold.  Stop about 2″ before the fold.

Ending near pocket

12. Cut the end of binding at a 45 degree angle.  Lay it on top of the finishing fold and stitch along the line you stitched before.  It can be a bit fiddly but just adjust as you go along.

Cut Ends

13. Now switch to the front side.  For the rest of the job, I use a stitch-in-the-ditch foot.  The flange on the bottom of the foot guides your stitching along the line you stitched on the other side.  Bring the binding to the front and hold it in place, just over the stitching line.  Line up your foot and sew.

Start on The Top

14.  When you come to the corner, stop about 2″ away.  Pull the binding toward you and you will see the 45 degree angle.

Pull for Miter Corner

15.Put glue stick on the part that will fold up and touch the binding.  It should look like this.

Glue Stick

16.  Fold the glued side up and arrange to create a miter. Sometimes things can get bunchy with the batting and seams in the corner.  Trim if you need to, so you can get a better fold. Stitch down to the corner.

Corner Folded Up

17. Stitch till just before the folded miter and stop. Turn the quilt and stitch up the miter to secure it in place.

Stitch up the Miter

18. Turn the whole quilt around and stitch down the miter to secure it and get your needle back to the stitching line.  Stop and admire the cute and perfect miter you just made!

Stitch Back down the Miter

19. Rotate the quilt around and stitch to the next corner.  Repeat this for the remaining three corners.

Stitching all the way home

Yay! Your quilt is done!

Finished Binding

Now you have a finished binding and four perfect mitered corners!  What?  Not all four are perfectNot to worry. This is the best method I know for binding.  With practice, you will get better and better.  I hope you feel encouraged to give it a try and enjoy more finished quilts.

Binding Finished

For more about me and my minky demos, check out my website. Jenny Kae Quilts.

The quilt shown is my pattern, Tiger Eye. You can get more information or purchase the pattern here. Jenny Kae Quilts Pattern

Tiger Eye Quilt D

The minky fabric was graciously provided by Shannon Fabircs from their collection of Cuddle Precuts.

Making Minky Easy – My Best Tips for Working with Minky

Making Minky Easy
My Best Tips for Working with Minky

1. Don’t worry about pre-washing. Minky does not shirk and the colors don’t bleed, which is awesome.

2. Minky has a nap, a direction it likes to lay flat. Be aware of the nap, trying to keep it in a uniform direction on your block. However, don’t fret too much. Different nap directions will add to the personality and charm.

Minky Nap

3. Minky is stretchy in one direction and not-so-stretchy in the other direction. Cut pieces so the longest part of your pattern is along the not-so-stretchy direction. This will allow your pieces to be more accurate.

Minky Yardage

4. Do all your cutting in one session. Take all the cut pieces and toss them in the dryer in the lowest setting, along with a damp washcloth. Run the dryer for about 15 minutes. All the fluff will collect in the lint trap. While the dryer is running, vacuum up the extra fluff from the workspace and you are good to go.

Cutting Minky

5. Use a 90/14 Stretch needle. This type of needle pushes the fabric apart instead of poking a hole.  These are my main minky tools.

Minky Tools

6. Increase the sewing machine stitch length to 3.0 to 4.0, depending on the thickness of the nap.

7. Pin! Pin! Pin!  I pin around curves, but for long strips, I pin at the beginning, end and a few spots along the way.

Pin! Pin! Pin!
8. Still can’t get things to match up? It is OK, use a bit a glue stick in the seam allowance and stitch as normal.  You can also use glue stick instead of pins to place applique pieces before stitching.

Glue Stick Applique

9. For pressing, use low heat and plenty of steam. Press only from the back. Press seams open to minimize the bulk.

10.  Binding is super easy because you don’t need to fold the edges under, which is also awesome.  Using a stitch-in-the-ditch foot is very helpful. The flange on the bottom of the foot wants to ride in the seam, helping your alignment.

Ditch Foot

My favorite minky maker?  Shannon Fabrics!  They carry the best Cuddle Fabric.

My favorite thread? Aurifil!

The owl pattern pieces are from McKay Manor Musers

The gray fabric is from my pattern, Tiger Eye Quilt.

For more about me and my minky demos, check out my website, Jenny Kae Quilts.